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Qinghai guide

The Qinghai guide 2018

There are few mysteries left in the world. Bored farmers have confessed to creating crop circles, Area 51 is available on Google Street View (probably) and your lost sock is almost certainly behind the sofa. For most Western travellers, the Chinese province of Qinghai offers that rare modern prospect: a remote, barely-explored mystery. This is a land of sky-mirroring lakes and star-tickling mountains; yak jerky and steaming noodles; pagodas, thangkas and temples. It’s also a place where teenagers listen to Rihanna in hipster cafes, restaurateurs wax lyrical about their tsampa dumplings and tea shop owners navigate online dating. Qinghai is beguiling, confounding and surprising. So, dig out that missing sock, pull on your boots and go solve a mystery.

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