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Where to stay: Ubud

Amid the jungles and rice paddies of Bali’s uplands, the town of Ubud has corned the market in rustic-luxe accommodation

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Bambu Indah

Bambu Indah

Bambu Indah
The epitome of rustic luxe, guests at this eco-retreat stay in wooden houses — some on stilts, some antique — set over a fish-filled pond and overlooking lush green rice paddies. One guest house even has a glass floor in the bedroom, through which the fish can be viewed. Doubles from £112, B&B.

Rumah Surga Villa

Rumah Surga Villa

Rumah Surga Villa
This pair of textbook Balinese villas are set amid rice paddies in a tiny settlement on the town’s outskirts. The one-bedroom has an outdoor bar, and the two-bedroom’s open-air kitchen overlooks the fields. Each has a pool and garden, while the local owners are charm personified. Villas from £69.

Nyoman Badri Homestay

Nyoman Badri Homestay

Nyoman Badri Homestay
Nyoman Badri — better known as ‘Mama’ — started her homestay in the 1980s by renting out two rooms in her family compound to make ends meet. Today, it’s a beloved spot, as popular for her warung (restaurant) as for her hospitality. The four en suite rooms are clean, comfy and have TVs. Doubles from £16, B&B.

Yoga Barn

Yoga Barn

Yoga Barn
If you’re in Bali for the hippy experience, you’ll want to stay at the guest house at Yoga Barn, the epicentre of Ubud’s New Age scene. The nine calming rooms (plus a women’s dorm) are seconds away from the studio and ‘healing centre’, and breakfast is served in the buzzy Garden Kafe. Doubles from £70, B&B. 

Published in the November 2017 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK)