The epitome of rustic luxe, guests at this eco-retreat stay in wooden houses — some on stilts, some antique — set over a fish-filled pond and overlooking lush green rice paddies. One guest house even has a glass floor in the bedroom, through which the fish can be viewed. Doubles from £112, B&B.
Rumah Surga Villa
This pair of textbook Balinese villas are set amid rice paddies in a tiny settlement on the town’s outskirts. The one-bedroom has an outdoor bar, and the two-bedroom’s open-air kitchen overlooks the fields. Each has a pool and garden, while the local owners are charm personified. Villas from £69.
Nyoman Badri Homestay
Nyoman Badri — better known as ‘Mama’ — started her homestay in the 1980s by renting out two rooms in her family compound to make ends meet. Today, it’s a beloved spot, as popular for her warung (restaurant) as for her hospitality. The four en suite rooms are clean, comfy and have TVs. Doubles from £16, B&B.
If you’re in Bali for the hippy experience, you’ll want to stay at the guest house at Yoga Barn, the epicentre of Ubud’s New Age scene. The nine calming rooms (plus a women’s dorm) are seconds away from the studio and ‘healing centre’, and breakfast is served in the buzzy Garden Kafe. Doubles from £70, B&B.
Published in the November 2017 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK)